A knife is one of the oldest tools created by humankind, and still an essential piece of any hunter’s gear. But as you go into an outdoor store, or open the web page of an online shop, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the variety of sizes, shapes, types, sorts of steel, and so on and so forth. It’s not easy to make your way through this abundance. You need to understand the main functions and necessary properties of a hunting knife, and making the right choice will be simple and straightforward. 

Why do I need a hunting knife at all? 

You don’t need a hunting knife if you never harvest an animal, never have a meal or break camp while hunting, and never need to cut a branch or piece of rope – in short, if you never really go out hunting. When you do go out hunting, you will be using a knife for field dressing, skinning, butchering, and caping your harvest, as well as for various camping jobs, cooking, and (hopefully not) as a survival tool. Here is a more detailed view on that: 

Field Dressing

This is perhaps the most important function of a hunting knife. Field dressing is removing the entrails from the carcass, and you might want to do it for two essential reasons. First, so as not to carry dead weight home, and second, because the entrails are the first part of the body to go bad. Even with small game and birds, if it’s hot, gutting them in the field may be a good idea. 

Skinning, Butchering, and Caping

With game up to and including a white-tailed or mule deer, you can usually drag or carry the carcass out of the wild, and then take it to a meat processor or hang and butcher at home. With elk, moose, and a big black bear, that would be impossible, unless you can drive your truck or ATV right up to the trophy. You would want to remove the skin and separate the carcass into carriable parts, usually quarters. If your trophy is good enough to mount on a wall, you may want to “cape” it, that is, remove the skin from the head and neck so that it would work for the taxidermist. For all of these jobs, the knife you carry has to be up to the task. 

Camp Jobs and Survival

On a backcountry trip, you just can’t do without a good knife. From cooking meals in a camp to sharpening poles to make a shelter, a good knife can do a thousand and one jobs. Including things that knives aren’t really supposed to do. For example, it’s a bad idea to do it in general, but if you find yourself in need to undo a screw or dig a hole, and have no screwdriver or spade at hand, a knife can do the trick.

The Blade

The blade is the most important part of the knife. Its shape, size, and the stuff it’s made of determines whether it’s up to the job. Let’s start with the shape. There are dozens of those, but most are specialized for a concrete task, such as fileting. If you want an all-around knife for hunting, choose one of these following classic shapes: 

Drop Point Blade

With this design, the spine (top part) of the blade curves downward towards the tip, creating a strong, thick point. This shape works well for skinning and general field dressing, with a large belly for slicing. While the tip may lack precision for delicate tasks, drop point blades are durable, versatile, and easy to control, making it the best all-around option for a beginner hunter.

Clip Point Blade

This shape is perhaps the first that comes to mind when you think about a hunting knife. With a   concave curve or “clip” on the spine near the tip, it has a sharp, fine point, for detailed, delicate work like puncturing and precision cutting. It provides better control for fine tasks and easy piercing, but is a bit less durable and more prone to breaking, especially the tip.

Finnish Blade 

Known as Puukko (smaller and more delicate), and Leuku (bigger and more robust), these blades are straight-edged, with a slightly curved belly and a flat or slightly convex grind. The tip is sharp but not overly pointed. Their shape may appear primitive, but in practice they are extremely convenient.

Stuff Blades are Made Of

Obsidian, bronze, ceramics – humankind used lots of materials to make knives of, but the most common is of course steel. Steel is an alloy of iron and some other elements, primarily carbon, as well as chrome, molybdenum, vanadium, and some other metals I can’t even spell. Steels with different composition, and after different thermal treatment, can be as different as night and day. Here are the most important qualities of steel, and steels that are most commonly used on hunting knives. 

Hardness

Hardness refers to a steel’s ability to resist deformation, typically measured using the Rockwell Hardness Scale (HRC).  Higher hardness leads to better edge retention, which means you won’t have to sharpen the blade very often. However, very hard steels can be brittle, making them more prone to chipping or breaking. For hunting knives, an HRC of 55-62 is typically ideal, balancing edge retention and toughness.

Toughness.

Toughness is the steel’s ability to resist cracking or chipping under force. Tougher steels are less likely to break when subjected to heavy use or impact. However, toughness and hardness are usually opposites, so a blade that is too hard may not be tough enough, which can lead to reduced edge retention.

Edge Retention.

How well the steel holds a sharp edge over time. Better edge retention means the knife will require less frequent sharpening. However, steels with high edge retention are often harder to sharpen. If you look at pro chefs and butchers, most of them tend to prefer softer blades, and just keep sharpening them all the time. A hunter should look for a good balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening.

Corrosion Resistance

The ability of the steel to resist rust and corrosion, especially in wet or humid environments, is a welcome factor, especially for hunting trips in challenging weather. However, steels with high corrosion resistance often sacrifice edge retention or toughness.

Choice of Steel: a Matter of Balance 

Tool steels such  D2, A2, O1 are highly durable, with good edge retention and toughness, but are usually hard to sharpen. Powder steels like CPM-S35VN or CPM-S90V are one of the latest advances in metallurgy, but are expensive, and require skill to sharpen effectively.

For a beginner, a stainless steel such as 420HC or S30V is ideal. These steels offer a good balance of edge retention, corrosion resistance, and ease of maintenance. They’re also durable enough for general field dressing and game processing, without requiring constant attention. A good second choice are carbon steels, such as 1095 and 5160. They combine ease of sharpening with excellent edge retention and toughness, but are more prone corrosion if not maintained properly. 

But don’t overthink it, and don’t forget that thermal treatment is also important; some firms like Buck Knives are known to greatly improve the performance of quite ordinary steel sorts through better production methods. 

How Would You Handle It?

Wood, real and laminated, metal, leather, antler, horn, any combination of those and of course plastic – what are knife handles not made of? The handle of a hunting knife is just as crucial as the blade. It affects how comfortable, secure, and effective the knife will be in various hunting situations, such as field dressing or skinning. A good handle should offer a combination of grip, durability, and ergonomics. Here’s an in-depth look at different handle materials and grip designs.

Ergonomics

A well-designed handle should fit comfortably in your hand, preventing hand fatigue during extended use. Handles with contoured shapes allow for a more natural, secure grip. Some handles include finger grooves for added security, but they need to fit your hand size to be effective.

Smooth handles (like polished wood or bone) may look aesthetically pleasing, but they offer less grip in difficult conditions. Textured handles, particularly on synthetic materials like G-10, Micarta, or rubber, provide better grip, especially in wet conditions. Straight handles offer versatility, allowing for different grip styles. However, they may lack the security of contoured designs. Curved or contoured handles are designed to fit the hand’s natural shape, reducing hand strain and improving control during skinning or field dressing.

A full cross guard or quillon, like on Bowie knives, is essential if you need to stab someone or parry an opponent’s thrust. For a hunting knife, however, it mostly gets in the way. You want a developed bolster with a finger groove in front of the handle, to keep your finger from slipping into the sharp edge, and to ensure the correct position of the hand. And you want a bit of a bolster in the back, to give your little finger a rest to lean against when making a backward slashing or cutting motion. Otherwise, keep the shape of the handle simple. 

Choice of Material 

Wood, especially hardwoods such as walnut, rosewood, or cocobolo, is beautiful. Then again, nothing feels as warm in the hand as wood. On the minus side, wood can become slippery when wet or bloody, reducing grip. And in the wrong condition and/or without proper care, it will dry out, crack, or even rot. The same applies for handles out of bone and antler, as well as other similar materials like leather. Suitable for hunters seeking a classic, custom-made feel, but not ideal for high-moisture environments.

Synthetic handles are designed to offer enhanced grip and durability, combined with excellent non-slip properties, even when wet or cold. Some synthetic handles are designed to absorb shock, reducing hand fatigue during heavy-duty tasks. And of course they are nearly indescribable, or at least highly resistant to wear, corrosion, and weathering, and easy to clean and maintain. The only disadvantage is that it lacks the classic looks. But the practical advantages more than outweigh it, making synthetic handles the first choice for beginners. 

Design of the Knife

Now that you know your way about the essential parts of the knife, let’s get down into the overall design of your first hunting knife. How long does it need to be, should it be a folder or a fixed blade, or maybe a modern system with replaceable blades? Here are some of the important choices you will need to make. 

How Long is Your Blade? 

Many young hunters dream of something out of Rambo or Crocodile Dundee, but such monsters are more impressive on the screen than in the bush. Small game and bird hunters often opt for shorter blades that offer the precision that is necessary for this type of quarry. Elk and moose hunters might be better off with longer and more robust knives, to deal with the sizable carcasses of their trophies. In any case, a 3.5-5 inch blade is versatile enough for most hunting tasks.

Folder or Fixed Blade

A fixed blade knife has a solid, non-folding blade that extends directly from the handle. It is ready for use as soon as it is drawn from the sheath. Fixed blades are stronger due to their continuous design, with no moving parts to weaken the structure. They are also easier to clean and maintain, especially when dealing with dirt, blood, or moisture. The disadvantage is the bulk. You can’t just slip a fixed blade knife into the pocket, you have to wear it on a belt (where it can get in the way), or carry it in your pack (where it’s not immediately available). 

Folding knives are compact and easy to carry. They sit comfortably in your pocket, don’t require a sheath, and aren’t likely to catch on a branch or your gun sling. It’s best if there is a locking mechanism to keep the blade secure during use. More convenient are the models that are designed to be opened with one hand. However, their carry may be restricted in some countries or states (like California). 

An extra benefit of a folder is that it can have multiple blades, including a gut hook and other useful tools as screwdriver, can opener, or cork puller (for the refined ones who drink Pinot Noir or Tempranillo in camp). However, folding knives are weaker than fixed blades due to their hinge and locking mechanisms. The hinge and locking mechanisms can collect dirt, moisture, or blood, requiring more maintenance to keep the knife in working order. 

If you’re sure you need a folder, get it, but when in doubt, settle for a simpler and more robust fixed blade, preferably of a full-tang design.

Replacement Blades?

Great option for those who, like me, suck at sharpening. The blade got dull? Just snap on a new one. And you can carry several different ones, too. Start with one blade for gutting the deer, switch to another for skinning, use a gut hook or even a saw when necessary – knife systems with one handle and replaceable blades have their niche. Their disadvantage is that they are a bit less robust than a classic full-tongue knife, and may cost you way more, especially in the long run.

Some Features Best Avoided

Sometimes it’s easier to limit your choice by knowing what options you should avoid. Here are some of the features that, although good in themselves, may be something that your first hunting knife should better be without. 

Exotic Shapes

Spear point blades, Tanto blades inspired by Japanese weapons, trailing point blades with the spine curving upward, they all have their uses and advantages. You may have a lot of fun from trying out different shapes later, when you get some experience and understanding of what you want. For your first hunting knife, stick with one of the classic shapes described above.

Serrated Blades

Great when you need to cut a rope quickly, and pretty much useless for anything else. Hard to sharpen, too. Unless you often find yourself tangled in a mess of ropes, with cutting yourself free the only way to get out, avoid serrated blades. 

“Tactical” Designs

You don’t usually argue about matters of taste, but “tactical”, especially camouflaged,  models are not the best choice for hunters. Blacked or coated blades may look inconspicuous, but it doesn’t matter unless you try to sneak on your game with a drawn knife. At that, most coatings increase the friction, which is something you don’t want when cutting through a thick layer of whatever. If anything, it is great if the handle of your knife has a bit of blaze orange. Deer and most other animals can’t see it anyway, but the knife will be easier to find when you lose or misplace it (trust me, it’s “when”, not “if”).

Conclusion

Years ago I worked under an editor, who was also a professional hunting guide and a knife nut to boot. He spent years developing the perfect hunting knife, enrolling some of the best custom knife makers in the project. But each prototype still missed something. Either the tip was too thin, or the bolster too fat, or whatever. After several attempts the editor had to admit: the perfect hunting knife does not exist. Pick one that’s good enough and focus on sharpening (both your skills and your blade) is now his motto. 

Choose a full tang, fixed blade knife, of a classic drop point, clip point, or Finnish shape, made of a classic stainless or carbon steel alloy. The most practical handle options are rubber or synthetic materials (such as TPE, Kraton, or G-10). These materials offer excellent grip, durability, and ease of maintenance compared to natural materials like wood or bone. 

Your first hunting knife should be a tool that combines practicality, durability, and comfort. By choosing the right blade shape, material, and size, you’ll have a reliable companion for field dressing, skinning, and other essential hunting tasks. As you gain experience, you may explore more specialized knives, but for now, focus on a versatile, high-quality knife that can handle multiple tasks with ease. Happy hunting!

Next in the Hunting 101 Series:

Hunting 101: Ain’t nothing but a hound dog?

There’s more to being a hound dog than crying all the time – or, if you prefer Big Mama Thornton’s original version, wagging your tail about. In this issue of “Hunting 101” series, we’ll cover scent hounds, whose job is to follow the trail of four-footed game animals across hill and dale, navigating mostly by their olfactory senses, until the quarry is put to bay or otherwise meets the human hunter. CONTINUE READING